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1 Frise
A ratine dress cloth made in France with slub yarns, plain weave and piece-dyed. All-cotton yarns. ———————— Very fine plain weave linen cloths made in Holland, which were well bleached and used for underclothing, etc. A French-made linen cloth, but much heavier, also had this name. This was plain weave and used for dress purposes. ———————— A looped pile fabric woven in France, and is a terry cloth, from Frise, the French word for terry, ruffled, curl pile. ———————— French for ruffled. Curl pile or terry. -
2 Ratine
A rough woollen cloth, chiefly used for travelling coats in the 17th century. It was first made in Italy and the fabrics made at Florence were especially famous and exported to France, England and other countries. In 1669 its manufacture was established at Rouen, Caen, Beauvais and other towns. Two varieties were known. Ratine Drape which was slightly felted before being raised, and Ratine Frise which had a nub finish. The ratines made in Yorkshire are all-wool fabrics in plain, fancy and stripe effects for dress purposes. Usually made from spiral yarns in coarse reeds. The warps are 3's to 5's spiral yarn, weft 3's spiral, 16 to 20 ends and picks per inch. When stripes are made the coloured yarn is not spiral. Always plain weave. All-cotton ratines are made from fine warp yarns and coarse " ratine " weft of the gimp character.
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